Washington state arguably has some of the best hiking the USA has to offer. But, it can be really hard to decide which trail, amongst the thousands of miles of trails offered, to set off on. As much as I’d love to hike them all and tell you to do the same, I know that’s quite a feat – and not helpful! So I’ve come up with a list of essential Washington Cascades hikes to get you out into the wilderness quickly.
The Cascade range is a hugely impressive mountain range with a ton to offer, stretching south from Lassen Peak in northern California all the way up into British Columbia. But for this post, we’re just going to cover what the Washington Cascades have to offer. There are so many special spots that there is no way to make a comprehensive list without it trailing on and on – so this list is a gathering of highlights that should showcase what the Washington Cascades have to offer, and hopefully inspire you to explore further.
North Cascades National Park
Maple Pass Loop
Starting at the most northerly point, North Cascades National Park is one of the most underrated national parks in the whole of the United States and a perfect place to start our essential Washington Cascades hikes list. With very little development, North Cascades is a true wilderness, carved by glaciers, capped with snow, and teeming with wonder.
One could easily keep occupied for weeks on end in the park, but if you only have one hiking opportunity, you have to make it the Maple Pass Loop. At 7.2 miles, the trail is not easy, but nor is it out of reach to the uninitiated, and the views are completely worth it. It is said that the Maple Pass Loop offers a bit of everything that North Cascades has to offer, and we would have to agree.
Regardless of which way you start, the loop begins by climbing up until it comes to a ridge roughly halfway through the trail. The ridge provides a spectacular view of the surrounding mountains, as well as Lake Ann which the trail circles around. If you plan enough time, you can also hike down to Lake Ann itself.
If you’re lucky like us, you’ll even get the chance to sample some of the PNW’s famous huckleberries, which grow naturally along the trail during the summer.
Trailhead:
Directly off Route 20 near mile marker 157. Turn off at the signs that say Rainy Pass where you find restrooms and picnic tables. Here you can decide to start your trail to the left or right.
The left (clockwise) route climbs up quickly, then levels off for a while as it nears the ridge before descending gradually back to the trailhead.
The right (counter-clockwise) route climbs up gradually for several miles before reaching the ridge, then you have a short bit of relatively level ground before a steep descent.
Elevation Gain:
2000 feet
Need to Know:
North Cascades National Park is actually free to enter, however, you will need a Northwest Forest Pass for parking in most places within the park. The fee is $5 and should be purchased in advance, don’t expect to buy one once you’re at the trailhead.
Mt Pilchuck
Mt Pilchuck Trail
Looming behind the town of Granite Falls, halfway between Seattle and Bellingham rises Mt Pilchuck. While not as grand as the North Cascades or the nearby volcanoes, Mt Pilchuck still packs a punch and is not to be underestimated.
The trail immediately begins to plow upwards through small streams, alpine forests, talus fields, and boulder-strewn snowfields. To those who can make it all the way, they are rewarded with an old fire tower providing epic panoramas of the Puget Sound.
We actually failed to reach the summit when we made our attempt in early June. There was a full snowfield and we didn’t have the right gear to get through safely. That didn’t stop plenty of others from making it through – the trail had a fair amount of traffic. Even a few snowboarders getting a few late-season runs in.
Trailhead:
Getting to the trailhead for Mt Pilchuck is rough. You turn onto Mt Pilchuck Road, across from the lodge, and start going up in elevation rapidly. The road quickly devolves into an unpaved minefield of potholes that should be handled with a 4WD. Just keep going until the road ends at the parking lot at 3,100’.
Elevation Gain:
2,125 feet
Need to Know:
Like much of the cascades, snow can be persistent on the trail even in summer. Bring the right footwear and bring gear if needed. This is a potentially dangerous hike, so be careful. Steep cliffs, abrupt dropoffs, and slick rocks are present throughout and demand your attention.
Lake 22
Our hike up to Lake 22 was otherworldly. We chose a rainy day, but came prepared and were treated to an ever-changing landscape of mist-shrouded forests and clearings as we climbed along the waterfalls and cascading stream.
There were only a few others who were willing to brave the weather, so we mostly had it all to ourselves. The lake itself was serene and breathtaking, with a decidedly chill breeze blowing from the icefall at the far end of the lake.
Lake 22 is actually on the north side of Mt Pilchuck just beneath the summit and is one of several alpine lakes you can hike to on the mountain. The other lake hikes are Heather Lake, Bear Lake, and Pinnacle Lake. Lake 22 however, is arguably the most accessible and picturesque of them.
Trailhead:
Getting to the trailhead is pretty easy since it is just off of Mountain Loop Hwy – behind Granite Falls – about a mile past the Mt Pilchuck Lodge. The parking lot is fair-sized, but as the trail is popular, you may want to arrive early to get a spot. Don’t forget to get a Discover Pass for $5 at the lodge for parking.
Elevation Gain:
1500 ft
Need to Know:
Lake 22 is a moderately difficult trail to tackle. At 7 miles out and back with significant elevation change and a few spots of rough terrain, you should be sure you can handle the physical exertion. Wear the proper footwear, bring hiking poles, and be prepared to use your hands at times to get over obstacles.
Big Four Ice Caves
At the base of Big Four mountain, you will find numerous ice caves. They’re formed by melting snow higher up on the mountain running through the small glaciers in the mountain crevices along with some warm air currents. These are pretty unique features that surprisingly are pretty accessible.
The trail is well-curated, with maintained trails and boardwalks for the majority of the way. The elevation gain is pretty minimal and the length is under 2 miles each way. Once at the caves, you can explore plenty, but the terrain gets pretty rough in the area immediately around the caves.
Since the trail is relatively short (3.2 miles out-and-back) and not too difficult, this is a great option for families with young children, elderly, the not-so-fit, or anyone who wants to get outdoors but not spend the entire day doing so.
Trailhead:
Another hike just off of Mountain Loop Hwy, the trailhead is easy to reach and has plenty of parking. The parking lot is marked, but be aware that it is many miles past the Mt Pilchuck Lodge – so be sure to get your Northwest Forest Pass when you first enter as you don’t want to have to drive all the way back once you’re at the trailhead.
Elevation Gain:
500 ft
Need to Know:
The ease of the trail can put you at ease and the caves can seem enticing, but be aware that the caves are extremely dangerous. Under no circumstances should you enter the caves, and you should only approach them with extreme caution. There have been several deaths due to ice collapses, and they are unpredictable.
Wallace Falls
Head south towards the town of Gold Bar and you find Wallace Falls State Park, aptly named for Wallace Falls. There are plenty of hikes you can do here, but the main attraction is the falls themselves.
Consisting of nine cataracts, we found ourselves consistently impressed as we hiked the 4.4-mile trail. The day was warm and beautiful, making it a great day to traverse the narrow valley. While we could have stopped at the picnic area that views the falls, we elected to take the extra mile to see the top of the falls. It was well worth the effort.
Despite a relatively short length, the trail has a good amount of elevation change, so be ready to get in some exercise. The trail is heavily trafficked but is also well maintained. When we went during spring, the trail was dry and there were plenty of other hikers and their dogs on the trails too. Plan ahead and you can bring a picnic with you to enjoy.
Trailhead:
The Wallace Falls parking lot is just behind the town of Gold Bar and has good signage leading to it. The trailhead has amenities including bathrooms, maps, and water fountains. The trail is very popular, however, so be sure to arrive early if you want to guarantee a place to park.
Like most of the trails on this list, parking does cost. If you have your Discover Pass, you’re good – if you’ve forgotten to get one, you can pay at the trailhead.
Elevation Gain:
1400 feet
Need to Know:
Easily accessible by the road, this is a trail for many. While it is not as easy as Big Four Ice Caves, it is safer. It is also family-friendly, and while very young children shouldn’t use the trail, you should feel safe to bring children as young as five along.
Snoqualmie Falls
The iconic waterfall from the opening credits of cult-tv show Twin Peaks, Snoqualmie Falls is picturesque and impressive, with a sheer drop of 268 feet. While most of the river is diverted to the hydroelectric plant, there is still plenty of water flowing over the falls. They are sacred to the local Snoqualmie tribe, and an essential part of their heritage.
This is the best option if you have young children or disabled with you. The Salish lodge overlooks the falls and has numerous vantage points from which to view these them. The path along here is paved and level, as well as ADA compliant.
If like us, you want to get your feet moving, there is a short (1.3 mile) yet steep trail to a viewing point at the bottom of the falls. Along the way, you can view relics of the power plant, and discover a bit of information about the local flora and fauna. The trail is slick and steep at spots though, so don’t assume it is as easy as the vantage points at the top.
Trailhead:
Located at the Salish Lodge and Spa in Snoqualmie, it’s pretty easy to find and get to. There is plenty of parking, but the falls are very popular too.
Elevation Gain:
350 feet (down then back up)
Need to Know:
If you plan on hiking the trail and not just visiting the viewpoint, remember to wear the appropriate shoes. The trail is steep and often a little wet. As well, winter conditions can close the trail entirely.
Rattlesnake Lake
Want something different? Alright, I’ll admit this isn’t a hike, though you can find one here if you want. If you’re tired of the crowds, you can head just a little bit south of Snoqualmie and will find Rattlesnake Lake. Don’t worry, there are no rattlesnakes west of the Cascades – the origin of the name is still a mystery. However, what you will find is a lake filled with giant stumps.
There is a trail that takes you to the top of Rattlesnake Ridge overlooking the lake, but if you’re like us, the interest is more in the lake itself. When the water level is on the low side, old tree stumps break the water’s surface and offer an interesting place to take to the water.
We brought our blow-up kayak with us to cruise along the water, but if you don’t have one available, you should be perfectly fine with anything that floats – or even just jumping in for a swim. The water might be a little bit cold though.
However, if you’re just interested in the hike up the ridge, you’ll find yourself in for a workout. The trail is 5.1 miles out and back and makes a significant climb. At the top, you’ll find great views of nearby Mt Si and Mt Washington. For those wanting to walk, but not climb, there is also a walking/bike path around the lake itself – with no elevation change.
Trailhead:
The Rattlesnake Lake Recreation Area has a large parking lot able to accommodate multiple sizes of vehicles. There are bathrooms and picnic areas to use. As well, you will find the Cedar River Watershed Education Center on the south side of the lake – though this operates on restricted hours.
Elevation Gain:
1500 feet
Need to Know:
Rattlesnake Lake is a popular spot to take to the water, so much so that there are life jackets provided free-of-charge at the shore. While swimming is allowed at the lake, there are no lifeguards on duty, so swim at your own risk.
Mt Rainier
Let’s talk about the elephant in the room, shall we? Mt Rainier looms over Seattle and is pretty hard to miss. The imposing volcano dominates the landscape for hundreds of miles and can be seen throughout the Puget Sound region so long as it’s a clear day. There’s no way we could make a list of essential Washington Cascade hikes and skip the biggest of them all.
Mt Rainier has hundreds of miles of trails for all skill levels, so deciding on where to start can be difficult. As enticing as it might sound to reach the peak of Mt Rainier, it is not a casual hike, and typically requires multiple days to accomplish. However, experienced trail runners can make it in a single epic day.
With that being said, we have a couple of suggestions for trails that, while busy, do you get you away from the main visitor center.
Need to Know:
Mt Rainier is a national park, and you will need to pay the park entrance fee.
Grove of the Patriarchs
Some of the biggest trees in the world can be found here. They aren’t quite as big as some in Sequoia National Park in California, but the Cedar and Douglas Fir come pretty close. Here you come across old-growth forest, over 1000 years old.
The Grove of the Patriarchs is a perfect family trail, making a nice loop showcasing some epic trees. While you won’t get any great views of Mt Rainier from here, you will get spectacular views of your surroundings nonetheless.
For us, this was just one trail we did while we visited Mt Rainier. We wouldn’t make this our top trail, but it’s perfect to combine with others to fill out a day or two.
Trailhead:
You can find the trailhead just after turning onto Stevens Canyon Rd which is just off of 123. The parking lot is relatively small, but you should be able to find a spot to park most days. Pay close attention as it is easy to miss Stevens Canyon Rd.
Elevation Gain:
45 feet
Need to Know:
Grove of the Patriarchs is not accessible year-round. Officially the road is closed December through March due to winter conditions, but pay close attention to the weather as this closure could start earlier in the year and last longer depending upon snow levels.
Naches Peak Loop
We were looking for something that would give us a little workout, without being exhausting, would pair well with Grove of the Patriarchs, and would provide extraordinary views of Mt Rainier. What we found was the Naches Peak Loop.
Once the snow has melted, Naches Peak Loop is heavily trafficked – for good reason. The trail itself is moderate, at around 3.5 miles and offers numerous checkpoints, vista views, and offshoots to extend your hike. There are multiple lakes to admire or swim in and the trail changes quickly, so you never get bored.
Trailhead:
There are multiple spots you can use as your trailhead such as the Chinook Pass Comfort Station, Little Tipsoo Lake, and Tipsoo Lake Comfort Station. The trail is extremely popular, so be sure to arrive early. And of course, be sure to have your National Park pass for parking. Both comfort stations have bathrooms and water, so be sure to take care of your needs there, and not on the trail.
Elevation Gain:
650 feet
Need to Know:
Like with Grove of the Patriarchs, Naches Peak is not accessible year-round based on weather. Also, as is the case with all these trails, it is in a wilderness area – bears and other wildlife can be on or near the trail.
Honorable Mentions
Of course, these are just a small offering of essential Washington Cascades hikes, and we’ve only touched on a few. While we haven’t had the chance to explore everything yet, we do have a few more honorable mentions. Mt Baker and Mt St. Helens.
Mt Baker
Photo courtesy of Curt Smith
One of, if not THE snowiest places on Earth, Mt Baker is another prominent volcano in the Washington Cascades range. Mt Baker is near the Canadian border and right beside North Cascades National Park. Much like Mt Rainier, Mt Baker rises well above the surrounding landscape and is snowcapped year-round. Be prepared for all weather conditions and turn back if weather conditions turn for the worse.
If you’re looking for a good hike with good views, give Chain Lakes Loop Trail a shot. Moderate in length and with a decent elevation gain, it will certainly give you a challenge but is still falls easily into the day hike category.
Trailhead:
You can begin your hike at the Artist Point trailhead. Easy to find because it is the end of Mt Baker Hwy (452). Be aware that snow can make the road impassable from October through April, or even later.
Elevation Gain:
1800 feet
Need to Know:
Mt Baker is exceptionally subject to weather conditions. With record snow of 1100+ inches a year in some seasons, you should be prepared for winter conditions all year. Plan ahead before deciding to hike, or you may not get the chance to do so period.
Mt St. Helens
Photo courtesy of Mark Smith
Arguably the most famous volcano in the United States, Mt St Helens made itself known when it tragically erupted in 1980. Despite the eruption and the fact that Mt St Helens is still an active volcano, it is also a popular hiking spot. There are numerous trails to choose from, so it is hard to pick one, especially as we haven’t been here yet (Briana has, but we haven’t been together).
For the adventurous, you can always attempt to reach the summit with a grueling trail. If you are interested in the aftermath of the 1980 eruption, you can explore the blast area. However, we are going to recommend something a bit more unique, but something we have a bit of experience with. Ape Cave trail takes you on a moderate 3-mile hike through lava tubes. We have done lave tube hikes at Lassen Volcanic National Park, and it did not disappoint. Here is another chance to take your adventure underground.
Trailhead:
Reaching the trailhead can be a little difficult depending on the season. Snow can make it inaccessible during the winter months. However, if the weather permits, you just proceed past the town of Cougar, WA on 503, which will then turn into Rd 90, and a few miles down the road you will find a turnoff for NF-83. Proceed on NF-83 until you reach a turn for NF-8303. A little further down this road and you will find a turnoff for a parking lot.
Elevation Gain:
430 feet
Need to Know:
You will need a Northwest forest pass to access the park. The caves are underground, and completely dark – so bring a flashlight, it’s a must. The caves also tend to be quite cold, so make sure you have the right clothes, even if it’s hot outside, it isn’t in the caves.
Getting In & Getting Out There
Most visitors to Washington will enter through or head to Seattle. From anywhere along the Puget Sound region from Bellingham down to Olympia you should be able to reach any of these hikes within a day. With that being said, you may want to give yourself more time to access some of the hikes if you are starting from a far location – North Cascades National Park is probably too far to turn into a day trip if you’re starting from Olympia for example.
Closest Airports:
- Seattle, WA – SEA
- Vancouver, BC – YVR
- Portland, OR – PDX
- Bellingham, WA – BLI
Wilderness Access:
Most of these hikes are on the border of, if not fully immersed in true wilderness. Services and cell coverage are not something you can or should count on. So you need to be prepared before you head out. There are a few places that you can get your last services before you take to the trail.
- Marblemount – This is your last call if you are entering North Cascades from the west. Get gas and any food and water you may need.
- Winthrop – If approaching North Cascades from the east side of the Cascades, Winthrop will be the last place to get your services.
- Maple Falls – When heading to Mt Baker, you can use Marblemount as a base, but most likely you are approaching from the west rather than the south, so Maple Falls will be your best port-of-call for last services.
- Granite Falls – This little town has some character to it, and is the gateway to the Mountain Loop Highway. Anything in the Mt. Pilchuck area will be best accessed through here.
- Enumclaw – Before arriving at Mt Rainier, you’ll pass through the town of Enumclaw, and this will be your last reliable source of services.
- Castlerock – If you plan on accessing Mt St Helens from the northern side, Castlerock is the town to get your supplies, after that, there isn’t much left.
- Woodland – For accessing the southern slopes of Mt St Helens, such as Ape Cave, you’ll want to top up in Woodland.
Across the board, you’ll need proper access to these wilderness areas. Most hikes are within the Mt Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest and will require a Northwest Forest Pass. They are only $5 a day, or $30 for a year pass. You should be able to purchase these the day of your hike at ranger stations, but you are unlikely to be able to do so once at the trailhead.
National Parks and Monuments – with the exception of North Cascades – will require National Park passes that can be purchased upon entering the park.
Road Closures:
The Washington Cascades are subject to some pretty wild weather. Snow is present in many places – year-round. Some service roads are in poor condition. From November through April, expect snow to be present in some form or other. Be prepared to tackle these roads with the appropriate vehicle and recognize when it isn’t safe to proceed. Use 4-wheel drive vehicles with high clearance when possible.
The best time to visit is mid-summer through mid-fall. You may be able to make your way through these essential Washington Cascades hikes outside of these times, but this range will guarantee good weather, clear skies, and long days.
Be Prepared
The Cascade Mountains have some serious backcountry and wilderness. Many trails are busy with hikers, but that doesn’t mean that they aren’t still wild. Bears, mountain lions, wolves, moose, mountain goat, and other animals wander the wilderness and there are limited to no services throughout the region. You should not go on any trails without proper preparation.
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- Water Bottles – Collapsible Water Bottles – These are some of our favorite items to bring with us. They’re really light-weight and you can also roll them up so you can store them away easily. If there is one item that is most important to bring with you, it is water.
- Hiking Clothes – Make your clothes are functional when you hit the trail. For him | For her
- Hiking Shoes – Wearing the right footwear will make sure that you have sure footing and dry feet, no matter where you step. For Him | For Her
- Raingear – The Pacific Northwest is known for rain, and you should be prepared to get wet. I really like this jacket because it’s light enough to wear without getting hot, but if it’s cool out it will also keep you from getting chilled. It also folds into itself making it very easy to carry or pack. For him | For her
- Headlamps – On these trails, you definitely do not want to be stuck in the dark and you want your hands to be free, and they’re necessary for Ape Cave. Foxelli Headlamp Flashlight
- Trekking Poles – The trails are steep and slick at times and trekking poles help a lot. These are great because they support a lot of weight, and can collapse for easier carrying. Trekking Poles
- Water Filters – There are few things worse than getting lost and running out of water. These drinking straws allow you to drink straight from the source of almost any water and have a safe drink. LifeStraw Personal Water Filter
- First-aid Kit – You really need to be prepared for anything when hiking, which means you need to be prepared for injury. We don’t often get hurt, but we have. You never know what could happen so you should always carry a basic first aid kit to be able to patch up whatever may happen. First-Aid Kit
- Sun Screen – If you don’t cover up with clothes, then you should wear sunscreen. High altitude exposes you more to the sun, and the chill air can be misleading. TSA Approved Sunscreen
- Bug Repellant – Mosquito season is short in the Cascades, but they’re bad when they’re out. These wipes serve us well and they are small enough to fit in your carry-on! Off! Deep Woods Towelettes
- Bear Spray – Walk these trails enough and you will run into a bear at some point. We’ve come across bears before, and while we haven’t been bothered by them, it only takes once to matter. Be sure to carry bear spray, not pepper spray, to ensure you’re safe while out in the woods.
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