The Mosque of Umm Haram, better known as Hala Sultan Tekke is considered to be the third holiest site in Islam by most Muslims. We visited the site twice during our stay in Cyprus: the first time with my parents who came to visit us after finished up a vacation in Europe; and again with Briana’s dad who came for a visit as well during our prolonged house sit here.

Hala Sultan Tekke and the Larnaca Salt Lake

The location of Hala Sultan Tekke is optimal for a visit upon arrival. The complex sits at the shore of the Larnaca Salt Lake, which is just 1.5 km from the Larnaca International airport. The first time we visited, we picked up my parents from the airport and then went straight to the mosque.

Hala Sultan Tekke is very inviting and quiet for visitors. The complex is comprised of a mosque, mausoleum, minaret, cemetery, and living quarters for men and women. The term tekke (which means convent) applies specifically to gatherings of a Sufi brotherhood. However, the present-day complex does not align to any specific sect and is open to all.

Historical Significance

The site has been of importance for many Millenia. Originally, the location served as a cemetery for the Bronze Age town of Dromolaxia Vizatazia pre-2000 BCE. The town remained inhabited and cemetery in use through to the 1st century BCE.

Hala Sultan Tekke gains its name and importance due to its connection with Muhammad. It is said to be the site of the death of Umm Haram, who was Mohammad’s wet nurse. She was of old age and died falling off her horse during the siege of Larnaca between 647 and 649 CE, which was a part of the greater Arab raids by Caliph Muawiyah. She was buried where she fell and a tomb was built there. Shia belief holds that she is buried in Madinah, Saudi Arabia – but nonetheless, the mausoleum is still considered holy. Due to the political situation in Cyprus, Hala Sultan Tekke is located in the Greek, non-Muslim sector of Cyprus and thus pilgrimages to the site are rare.

During the Ottoman administration, a complex and mosque were built around the tomb. The exact date of the construction of the complex is not clear but is estimated to have begun in 1760. Repairs began on the complex in 2004, and current restoration projects are underway on the mosque and minaret, funded in part by USAID and UNDP.

Pass Through the Gate

Our venture into the complex began at the ornate gate, which opened to a path which led down into the garden. The garden, known as Pasha Garden is a small but nice arrangement of plants and fountains.

At the bottom of the garden is a fountain which stands directly across the entrance to the mosque. We ventured into the mosque and respectfully took off our shoes and put on the provided robes at the entrance. It was unwatched however, so we did not have to.

Enter the Mosque

Upon our second visit, we were disappointed to see a tourist family who was allowing their son to run around shirtless. As well, a couple of young men who went into the mosque with shoes and t-shirts. Dress appropriately when entering, the grounds provide you with the means to do so. It seems to be very insulting and disrespectful to not do so.

The interior of the mosque is humble, especially in comparison to Mohammad Al-Amin in Beirut and the National Mosque of Malaysia. Little gold ornamentation or any other signs of wealth or extravagance adorn the walls and ceiling. The mosque is simple, with a soft carpet, and a balcony.

Visit the Tombs

Behind the wall (which faces to Mecca) is the entrance to the tomb. Here we found Umm Haram’s tomb along with four other tombs: two being of former sheiks, and a two-leveled marble sarcophagus belonging to Adile Huseyin Ali and Hussein Bin Ali who was a descendant of Muhammad.

Beneath the women’s guest room lie the remains of an ancient site.

Larnaca Salt Lake

The site sits on the shore of the Larnaca Salt Lake. The lake has been of importance since ancient times due to its natural salt composition. When we visited, during the summer (in the middle of a very bad drought), the lake was completely dry. We could walk out and pick up the salt blocks by hand. Underneath the three-inch crust, was a deep black muck, which once we realized was there, we were careful to not get on us. During the wet seasons, the lake serves as an important stopping point for migratory birds traveling between Europe and Africa. In all, more than 80 bird species utilize the lake.

Many rags were tied to trees here. It is customary in Cyprus to tie rags or ribbon to trees near tombs as tokens of good luck and reverence.

We made a friend with a stray Husky by the lake as well.

Visit

Visiting Hala Sultan Tekke is free and the hours are as follows:

Winter hours (16/9 – 15/4 )
Monday – Sunday: 8.30 – 17.00
Summer hours (16/4 – 15/9)
Monday – Sunday: 8.30 – 19.30