Hidden deep within the karst, limestone mountains of Cat Ba island lies a cave that remained hidden from outside eyes for many years. It served the Vietnamese as a secret hospital and safe house during the “American War” as they call. Today you can visit Hospital Cave easily.

Hospital Cave Cat Ba Island

Getting To Hospital Cave

We made our way to Hospital Cave by what is quickly becoming our favorite method of transportation – motorbike. Our Airbnb host on the island rented us a bike for $6/day and we went out in pursuit of the once hidden cave.

We picked up 2 liters of gas on the way out of tiny Cat Ba Town for an agreeable 40,000 Dong (~$2) and proceeded on our way. Compared to our trip out to Cu Chi Tunnels, this was a far easier ride. It was also a ride with gorgeous views.

 

Not counting the tiny side streets, Cat Ba really only has two main roads: one from Cat Ba Town in the south that cuts straight through the center of island and ends on the northern tip, and a second that connects to dock from Haiphong on the western tip of the island and follows the coast until it meets up with the first road. There are a few other service roads, but honestly you’d have a difficult time getting lost on the island roads if you tried.

Hospital Cave is located near dead-center of the island on the central main road – I don’t think it actually has a name. Just as we crested a small hill, situated between two cliffs, we came across the sign for the caves. I actually overshot it, and had to turn around.

Across the street from what appeared to be a hiking trail was a small cafe with parking, and here a few locals were selling tickets to the caves at 30,000 Dong each, for a total of 60,000 (~$3).

Climbing Into Hospital Cave

We dropped our bike and helmets and made our way up the short, but steep trail. The trail winds it’s way for a few hundred feet, and climbs about a hundred feet up, through rough rock, stairs, and a few rickety ladders.

Before entering the caves, we took a few moments to see the valley we ascended from. We saw pretty breathtaking scenery of rural and secluded Vietnamese life. The valley was very much enclosed by the rough cliffs rising abruptly, and it actually reminded me of Yosemite, though much more tropical.

 

Turning into the cave, we were greeted by a tour operator. He offered to give us a tour or let us wander through freely. Ultimately, we decided to just wander in and explore the caves ourselves. The caves are pretty well lit throughout and easy enough to explore on your own. Though if you want a tour guide to help explain a few things for you, it certainly wouldn’t hurt to accept the guide’s offer.

Eerily Alone

The cave was constructed in 1963 and 1965 as a secret hospital. It consisted of 17 rooms, all of which now stand eerily empty. Walking through the rooms, every step and sound echoes and booms. I can only imagine how bad it would have sounded during the war, with patients screaming in agony.

However, due to it’s location deep within the mountain, it remained safe from even the most powerful of bombs. Not that it needed to prove it , it was never found. Continuing on we came into a grand natural cavern that towered almost a hundred feet over head and could easily have held a couple hundred people.

This chamber was actually used as a cinema and there was even a small swimming pool there (though currently it is drained). The cave remained in constant use until 1975.

Many Chambers To See

We spent a few minutes exploring the cavern before heading back down into the hospital chambers. We were the only ones in there to the time and the place was fairly large. It was really fun and exciting to explore the place just on our own and by ourselves. We were able to choose which directions to go inside.

Eventually we made our way forward until we could start to see natural light again. Stepping out, we found ourselves on a small opening in an alcove of the cave. We had made it to the other side of the mountain. This part of the mountain seemed less hidden than the main entrance. But among these mountains, it’s easy for everything to remain hidden.

We made our way down a few dozen stone steps, and walked a little further until we came of the jungle path nearly where we began. We jumped back on our bike and continued on through the island.

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