It seems that Sri Lanka is heating up in the eyes of tourists worldwide. This predominately Buddhist nation is often times left a little forgotten beside its behemoth neighbor India, but this little island country can still pack a punch. While the interior seems to get most of the attention with the undeniably beautiful Kandy and the captivating historical sights such as Sigiriya, or the southern coast for its awesome surf breaks – oft overlooked is the wildlife. To safari in Sri Lanka is to see some of the best of what South Asia has to offer.
How to Safari in Sri Lanka
Why Visit?
Despite the boom of development currently ongoing in the capital of Colombo and the surrounding region, much of the country has remained relatively undeveloped, with as minimal disruption to the ecosystem as one could hope for in such a densely populated region of the world. Currently, there are 26 national parks in Sri Lanka, in which visitors are allowed for the sole purpose of observing. In fact, the national parks are heavily protected and provide safe zones for the plant and animal life.
Photo courtesy of: Thimindu Goonatillake
Sri Lanka has one of the highest rates of endemic species in the world, with 16% and 23% for animals and flowering plants respectively. This, along with the non-endemic species, make Sri Lanka one of the best places in the world for bird-watchers, animal-spotters, and floral enthusiasts. Here are just a few of the species you can expect to come across:
- Sri Lankan Elephant – the largest of the 3 subspecies of Asian Elephant, with a notable lack (generally) of tusks.
- Sri Lankan Leopard – one of the larger subspecies of Leopard due to the lack of competition as there are no other big cats on the island.
- Sri Lankan Sloth Bear – a highly endangered subspecies of Sloth Bear
- Peacock – although common in zoos around the world, the peacock is native to Sri Lanka and is a sight to see in its native habitat.
Our Safari in Yala
While we were in Sri Lanka, we kept to Colombo and the southern coast in Weligama. So for us, there were only a few serious options for us to consider, and after a little bit of deliberation, we landed on Yala National Park. Yala is Sri Lanka’s most prominent national park, and home to all the big animals: elephants, leopards, sloth bears, crocodiles, and water buffalo. It wasn’t too far away, and so it seemed perfect for us. We decided that for us, a half-day safari would be the right option.
Getting There and Back
Our host in Weligama explained to us that we had a few choices for getting to Yala from where we were: hire a taxi, hire a tuk-tuk, or ride a motorbike. While we could have done the option where you hire a taxi, the budget traveler in us made us go for the motorbike. Plus we were thinking about biking to Galle already so we could test it out. We also considered hiring a tuk-tuk which would have been a little cheaper than a taxi, but also much slower. So we opted with the cheapest method and the one that provided us the most freedom – motorbike.
Choosing to ride a motorbike to Yala was not an inconsequential decision. The ride from Weligama along A2 to Tissa would prove to be the longest ride we’d ever taken by bike, coming in at 4 hours each way. The ride gave magnificent views the whole way as we skirted the coast and dove into the jungle. The roads were also, to our surprise, in remarkably good condition and proved great to ride along – when we weren’t weaving through city traffic. Our Airbnb host also packed us a lunch which was nice. We ate that on a quick stop on the way.
Upon arrival to Tissa, we were fortunate to run into our tour operator on the street. He directed us to a nearby hotel to wait for roughly an hour before being picked up, and our tour would begin. As nice as it would have been to start immediately, the wait was well-received by us and gave us ample opportunity to rest from our long ride. The hotel staff also provided exemplary hospitality and provided us complimentary lassi as we waited.
We were able to leave our bike safely at the hotel while we were out on our safari, so we knew we could then easily get back on the road once done. In hindsight, we should have just stayed at the hotel.
It should be noted that choosing to drive a motorbike in Sri Lanka carries a host of risks. We go into more detail about driving here in another post, but needless to say, it can be dangerous. Driving back, the roads were not lit and it was exceptionally dark. Just outside of Matara, we got into an accident when we hit a family of pigs crossing the road in the dark. We were extremely lucky to escape the accident with just a few scrapes and bruises, but it could have been a deadly experience. When we finally arrived back to Weligama late at night, we were very much worn, beaten, and tired.
So take our advice here, unless you’re very close to your safari location, plan to stay at a nearby lodge and get back home the next morning. And don’t drive at night! It will be well worth it.
Our Safari Experience
Let me go ahead and say this right from the beginning – our safari was a blast and was a true highlight of our time in Sri Lanka. While we were hoping for a good time, we did not imagine we would have the experience that we did. Some of the reason for this was just dumb luck, but the majority came down to the operators really caring about providing a great experience. If you want to do the exact tour that we went with, you can check Janaka Safari Jeep Tours.
Our safari truck pulled up to the hotel and we were brought aboard at right around noon. The truck was a specially crafted truck with a raised bed in the back, providing ample 360º view of everything around us. The seats were well cushioned, the top was covered to provide shade, and lucky for us – we somehow were the only people riding this truck.
The trucks were designed to be able to hold 8-12 people – we know this because we saw plenty of other trucks – where you will typically be confined to a single seat. We, however, had the opportunity to hop from seat to seat at will, meaning that we got the optimal view for everything we encountered. This also allowed the safari to feel a little bit more interactive, since we weren’t just sitting and observing, but jumping back and forth in our private observation area.
So onto the truck we went, and we began the drive to Yala National Park, a roughly 45 minute trip from Tissa. Our truck had a driver, and a guide who answered questions, provided information and commentary, and most importantly kept up-to-date on the whereabouts of animals in the park.
Entry into all parks in Sri Lanka is heavily restricted to protect wildlife, and you generally will need a tour to enter. At the park entrance, we paid for our permit to enter the park and then the tour really began.
Our guide told us that their goal for the day would be to show us the big 5: elephant, leopard, sloth bear, wild water buffalo, and crocodile. The elephant, buffalo, and crocodile he told us would be easy to find – but the sloth bear and leopard would prove to be more elusive.
Yala National Park has a criss-cross of unpaved roads throughout 2 of its 5 sections (these 2 sections are open to the public) and our day was spent zooming through these roads in search of our animals. Our guide would hear a call on the radio and off we would go to the animal in question.
Upon arrival, we’d get the chance to observe for a while – sometimes a good long while with the engine off – before we would be off again. Rarely would we get very close to the animals, as much for their privacy as our safety, but some elephants were not as shy as others. We got very lucky when we finally found our sloth bear, as it was near the road and decided to cross the path directly in front of us. We didn’t get a long look, but we did get it. Our operators were very excited, saying they had not been able to see a bear for several weeks.
About half-way through the tour, we made a stop at the beach. This was as much a chance to go to observe the ocean as it was to stretch legs, go to the restroom, and give the drivers a quick break. Yala was heavily affected by the 2004 Christmas Tsunami, and the beach was one of the first places to be hit. The park has recovered, but the event won’t soon be forgotten.
After some time at the beach, we were once again aboard the truck, this time in search of the leopard. It was beginning to look like we wouldn’t get to see one, as the sun was beginning its dive to the horizon, but suddenly our operator received a call on the radio, and he excitedly shouted to the driver to go. He turned to us and told us they’d found a leopard, and that we were going to take a shortcut to get there.
The shortcut wound up being a rather steep and windy dry creek bed. We were definitely going off-roading. We were bouncing back and forth and being flung from seat to seat in the hurry to the leopard. At one point, we nearly flipped. Was it safe? I’d have to say no. But it certainly was a fun adventure. Briana was cracking up laughing as things flew around and we tried to keep a hold of things (like our camera and the binoculars they provided).
Finally, after a few minutes, we came upon the leopard doing what cats do best – sleeping in the sun. Perched upon a high rock overlooking the surrounding savannah, the leopard was in good view. A few times it shifted its position, but mainly it just allowed us a good opportunity to view it.
Photo courtesy of: Danushka Senadheera
With the sun setting, we exited the park, grateful to have seen everything we hoped for. It would have been okay if we didn’t, but it was exciting to see all of this wildlife. In total, we saw dozens of species of native animals and birds, easily 40+ elephants, and did not have any disappointments. Well, we did have one disappointment – we had a horrible camera at the time and basically got no good shots – but that one is totally on us. The drive back to the hotel where our bike sat was peaceful and brought to close a pretty awesome day.
How to Decide where to Safari in Sri Lanka
Photo courtesy of: Amila Tennakoon
With so many national parks to choose from, how do you decide? You’ll likely be limited in your choices depending on your location, but if you have yet to pick a place to stay, you just need to figure out what it is you are wanting to see and experience. Sri Lanka can be divided into an ocean zone and 3 land zones: wet, dry, and arid. The type of safari you get will be heavily dependent upon the zone you are in, with much of the larger wildlife residing in the dry and arid zones.
Sri Lankan National Parks
- Adam’s Bridge – extending out into the Gulf of Mannar between Sri Lanka and India, this park hosts many migratory birds. The park also covers extensive marine territory and is home to dugong, dolphins, and turtles. A bird watcher’s and marine lover’s delight.
- Agammedilla – the park changes dramatically from lush mountain to dry forest providing excellent opportunities to see a wide range of habitats. It is considered a good place to spot elephants, and especially attractive to those interested in flora, but can be a little difficult to access.
- Bundala – despite being in the dry-zone along the southern coast, Bundala is actually a wetland, home to numerous birds and is an important site for flocks of greater flamingo that number in the 1000s. Bundala is also one of the least visited parks and provides exemplary chances to see Sri Lanka’s feathered citizens. Book your tour here.
- Chundikkulam – located in the far north of the country, this park is a premier bird sanctuary. Mostly consisting of mangrove swamp and scrub forest, this remote park is not easily visited, but provides ample reward for the dedicated bird watcher.
- Delft – located on an island in the north of Sri Lanka, it may just be the most difficult to reach. However, for those who can manage to get there, they will find the only wild ponies in the world. The island can be reached by small passenger ships. Book your tour here.
- Flood Plains – located along the Mahaweli River, this park is an important elephant corridor. The park is also rich in vegetation and biomass, making it an excellent place to spot large herbivores including buffalo, deer, and muntjac as well as numerous birds and reptiles.
- Gal Oya – residing along the western banks of Sri Lanka’s largest reservoir, the park boasts extensive savannah and is home to elephant, deer, boar, and numerous bird species as well as rare plants of medicinal value. The indigenous Vedda people also live here. Book your safari here.
- Galway’s Land – a rather small park near Nuwara Eliya, it serves to protect the montane environment. It is also considered one of Sri Lanka’s most significant birding sites, home to 20 rare migratory bird species and 30 endemic.
- Hikkaduwa – one of the 3 marine national parks, it consists of a fringing coral reef located just off the coast of Galle. High visitation has resulted in the unfortunate degradation of the reef, but measures are being taken to help conserve the delicate ecosystem. Book your tour here.
- Horagolla – a low-country evergreen forest just east of Colombo, you aren’t likely to find any large animals here. However, fishing cats, jackals, and giant squirrels all make their home here and numerous birds including parrots can be found flying amongst the numerous trees.
- Horrowpatana – with limited public access, this park serves as the world’s first elephant holding area. Problem elephants are able to live in peace here and rehabilitate.
- Horton Plains – located in the central highlands, the plains are the headwaters for three major rivers and contain diverse environments as well as Sri Lanka’s second and third highest peaks. Birds are in abundance as are deer, small cats, and leopards.
- Hurulu Forest Reserve – while not technically a national park, Hurulu serves as an important elephant reserve in the north-central part of Sri Lanka. Book your safari here.
- Kaudulla – historically an irrigation tank, this national park now attracts numerous animals including elephants, sloth bears, leopards, deer, and reptiles even during the dry period due to its abundance of water. It is also one of the few places to spot langurs. Book safari tour here.
- Kumana – the area is part of an ancient civilization and is now considered east Yala. Despite being in the dry zone, it is actually a wetland leading to its designation as a bird sanctuary for its numerous waterfowl and wading birds. Book your safari here.
- Lahugala Kitulana – composed of flat plains with rocky outcroppings, this dry evergreen forest provides an abundant source of food for elephants and is an excellent place to spot macaque, langur, sloth bear, jackal, Indian pangolin, leopard, and deer. Many wetland birds also call this park home.
- Lunugamvehera – serving as an important migration corridor for elephants between Yala and Udawalawe, this park sits in the dry zone in the southeast portion of the nation. Elephant, water buffalo, wild boar, and deer all call this park home. Book your safari here.
- Madhu Road – In this northwestern portion of the state, this park was once devastated due to the civil war, but now serves as a vibrant sanctuary for numerous bird species and most mammal species.
- Maduru Oya – located in the central region of the island, this park is home to the Vedda indigenous people. Numerous wildlife also call the park home, including elephant, water buffalo, sloth bear, leopard, langur, loris, and otter.
- Minneriya – this park is another of the historic irrigation tanks located near the center of the nation and is a popular elephant gathering spot with counts as high as 700 at times. The park is also an important habitat for macaque and langur, as well as much of Sri Lanka’s other large fauna and numerous birds. Book your safari here.
- Pigeon Island – a marine national sanctuary located just off the coast of Nilaveli in the eastern province, it is named for the rock pigeon which has colonized the island. The park is considered to have some of the best remaining coral reefs in Sri Lanka. Book your tour here.
- Somawathiya – located along the bank of the Mahaweli River in the east of the nation, the park contains numerous megafauna supported by the river’s floodplain delta. The park also contains the Somawathiya stupa, said to contain a relic of the tooth of the Buddha.
- Udawalawe – lying along the boundary of the wet and dry zones in the south, the humidity in the park is high and is the land is composed of grasslands and marshes. It is an important site for many animals but is also a haven for 135 species of butterfly. Book your safari here.
- Ussangoda – Sri Lanka’s newest park, it is a unique habitat along the southern coast composed of bright red soil and stunted vegetation. The park boasts high biodiversity and is an important nesting site for turtles.
- Wasgamuwa – located in the center of the nation, the park is home to large groups of elephants making it a great spot to watch herds and is also an important bird area. Book your safari here.
- Wilpattu – located in the northwest of the island, the park is noted for it’s natural, sand-rimmed lakes across the dry zone. The park is considered the best in which to spot the Sri Lankan leopard, and conducts professional safaris year round. Book your safari here.
- Yala – Sri Lanka’s most visited and second largest park, it is composed of numerous habitat types and is home to a wide diversity of flora and fauna. Elephants, leopards, sloth bears, buffalo, fishing cats, crocodiles, and turtles all call the park home. As well, Yala is an important bird area, with 215 species of bird residing in the park. The park also hosts formal safaris year round. Book your safari here.
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How to Go on your Safari in Sri Lanka
The options of safaris in Sri Lanka run the full gamut from multi-day private tours sleeping beneath the stars, to half-day budget options. Which you choose is going to depend on your budget and how much time you have. For us, a half-day budget option was perfect for us, but we revel the idea of being able to take a multi-day dive into the jungle.
There are numerous safari operators that will take you, the intrepid traveler, to almost any park you could desire in the manner that best suits you. Some parks are going to have more options than others however, and some will be far more difficult to manage than others and may require a bit more forethought than simply showing up. In all cases, we recommend booking ahead of time to ensure everything goes smoothly.
Photo courtesy of: Thimindu Goonatillake
The easiest locations to take your safari will be at Yala National Park, Udawalawe, and Wilpattu. With all these locations, but especially with Yala, you should keep in mind that they attract numerous tourists. So even if you get lucky like us with a private vehicle, don’t expect to have a solitary tour. If you want total seclusion for your safari, you’ll have to shell out the money or go find a more obscure park to visit. Yala is closed during the drought season from September 1st – October 15th. During this time, your best option will be at Udawalawe.
Depending on which option you choose, you may have to get somewhere to be picked up – as we did – or they may pick you up from your location. The closer you are to the park, and the more money you pay for the safari, the more likely you are to be picked up. As we were 4 hours from Tissa, it was up to us to get to the park – although our operators did offer to arrange for a taxi to get us there as well.
Now, you may be wondering, ‘Can I do a safari independently?’ and the answer to this is – technically, yes. However, we strongly recommend going with a professional tour operator. In almost every park, you will need to enter by jeep, which will mean either you need to drive yourself or hire a driver. Unless you are extremely confident and experienced in your abilities to navigate jungle roads, deal with breakdowns, and address a myriad of unforeseen issues that may arise – we highly recommend you don’t go it alone. We cannot stress enough – DON’T GO IT ALONE!
How to Prepare to Safari in Sri Lanka
So now that you have – hopefully – picked out the safari you want to take, and have placed your booking, you may be wondering what you need to do in order to prepare. Questions like, ‘what should I wear?’ and ‘what should I bring?’ may pop to your head first.
Well, you can rest assured that you can wear pretty much whatever you want on your safari in Sri Lanka. You aren’t going to be trekking the jungles, so you don’t need highly durable clothing or hiking boots. What you’re going to want to wear is what makes you comfortable. You are going to be exposed to the elements, so you will want to be able to cover up from the sun, stay cool in the heat, but also keep warm in the morning or evening chill.
Also, it’s hot – and many locations are dry – so you will want to bring with you an ample supply of water. Many operators will supply you with water, but just in case they don’t, bring water! Below, we have some of our picks for items you should bring with you on your Sri Lankan safari.
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- Camera – our biggest regret was that we didn’t have a good camera with us at the time. We missed so many good shots and many of the shots we did get turned out pretty awful. We’ve since upgraded to a camera that makes us happy, and we highly recommend you do the same. Now we use a Nikon D3300.
- Water Bottles – Collapsible Water Bottles – These are some of our favorite items to bring with us. They’re really light-weight and you can also roll them up so you can store them away easily. If there is one item that is most important to bring with you, it is water – and this is a great way to carry it.
- Hiking Clothes – Just because you aren’t hiking doesn’t mean you won’t benefit from good outdoor clothing. Keeping yourself covered really helps with bugs and sun exposure. A recent addition to my wardrobe has made a big difference so that I can be protected and comfortable. For him | For her
- Sun Screen – If you don’t cover up with clothes, then you should wear sunscreen. We use these and we haven’t been burned since, plus they are allowed in carry-on luggage. TSA Approved Sunscreen.
- Raingear – Sri Lanka gets monsoons and rain can come from nowhere quick. I really like the North Face Venture 2 Jacket because it’s light enough to wear without getting hot, but if it’s cool out it will also keep you from getting chilled. As a plus, it folds into itself making it very easy to carry or pack. For him | For her
- Bug Repellant – The jungles of Sri Lanka are full of mosquitos and other nasties that bite. No one wants to come down with any of the awful diseases these bugs bring. Unfortunately, there is no way to deal with these really other than to be proactive. We used these and were served well – they are also small enough to come in your carry-on. Off! Deep Woods Towelettes
- Kindle Paperwhite – If you have downtime, you may want to catch up on your reading. Kindle offers the perfect lightweight method to carry all your books. While in Sri Lanka, we recommend reading Elephant Complex: Travels in Sri Lanka