While scouring google maps for interesting locations near our apartment in Ho Chi Minh, we found a little Taoist temple not too far away. We had remembered seeing it mentioned somewhere else as well so we made note of it’s location and set off in search of the Jade Emperor Pagoda.
Jade Emperor Pagoda – Saigon
Finding the Jade Emperor Pagoda
We made our way down the road alongside the river channel. Upon hitting the bridge we turned down into the hustle and bustle of the city streets. Luckily the walk wasn’t too far, since the traffic was horrendous (as it always is).
We turned down the side street and began to look for the entrance to the temple. We had read that it could be hard to find, and even many locals did not know about it, despite being in District 1. Within about a minute however, we came to the pink gate of the temple and entered.
The Jade Emperor Pagoda (Phuoc Hai Tu) is a Taoist temple, constructed in 1909 by the Chinese.
It is located at 73 Road Mai Thi Luu, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City.
Sound Washes Away
Almost immediately, the roar of engines and incessant honking of horns died away. The temple sat recessed among looming buildings. The front entry walk was canopied by great trees with a boulevard of stone seats leading to the open doorways. Many people were coming and going here.
Birds sat perched upon the center statue in the courtyard, and cats wandered underfoot along the edge of the compound. Can you spot one in the picture below?
Incense Drifts Amongst the Trees
The smoke of incense drifted about as devotees lit numerous jos sticks and placed them standing up in a pot. Before the front of the door there was fountain and off to the right was a pond with dozens of turtles swimming about. Small shrines lay scattered about the grounds as well.
Entering into the temple, the incense poured throughout. The hot sun shining thin beams through the thick haze showed intricate wood carvings on the doors, walls, ceilings, and arches. Gilded objects shone, whilst the quiet murmur of prayer floated throughout. The occasional chime or ring of a gong signaled the end to a prayer.
Many Rooms of Devotion
We walked about the temple interior which was made up of a main central hall, and then several rooms off on each side with smaller altars. Each altar was different, but maintained a motif of intricate carvings and art, dedicated to Buddha. Before each altar, numerous offerings were placed, mostly of fruit, but various other items of consumption lay before them as well.
Second Floor Views
There was also a second floor we made our way up to. The narrow stairs were almost too small for me to climb, I had to turn my feet sideways just to be able to use them. Up on the second floor, there was yet another altar and a balcony.
We made our way onto the balcony, which overlooked the courtyard and had a large pot of incense burning. We spent a few minutes admiring the temple up here before heading down.
Returning to the Streets
Slowly, we made our way out of the temple and back to the front gate. While certainly a small temple, there was something about it that felt more alive and authentic than other places we had visited. Perhaps it was the active use of it? It was dirty, but not in a bad way. It felt used and alive. Our visit only lasted perhaps 45 minutes, but it was worth checking out.