Siem Reap is best known for the ruins of Angkor and Tonle Sap lake to the south, but the city boasts far more. On the north edge of town is Wat Thmei, an active Buddhist temple with a striking memorial to the victims of the Khmer Rouge. Though it is somber, a visit to the temple is a moving experience.

Wat Thmei – Khmer Rouge Memorial

Located about 3 km north of Siem Reap, just as Charles De Gaulle Blvd begins to enter the forest on its way to Angkor, lies the active Wat Thmei temple. This moderately sized temple complex at first appears unimposing but commemorates a very dark and recent past in Cambodian history.

A Skull Stupa Rises In Memory

Near the center of the compound, a small memorial stupa stands, housing the bones and remnants of Khmer Rouge victims. Although commonly mistaken for the killing fields, Wat Thmei was not a place of execution. Though, many murdered were held captive here before their deaths.

The Khmer Rouge

During the Khmer Rouge (1985 – 1987) roughly 2 million Cambodians (25% of the countries population) were murdered by Pol Pot and his regime. The genocide has left a scarred memory on the people. Those executed were the religiously affiliated, associated with the previous government, educated, unwilling to serve, or in any way against the Khmer Rouge.

The Killing Fields were dozens, if not hundreds, of locations across Cambodia, at which Cambodians were killed. Today, Wat Thmei stands as a somber memorial to those who died. If you are not able to visit Phnom Penh and see the more in-depth museums and memorials related to the genocide, Wat Thmei is a good place to educate yourself and pay respects.

 

 

Informative Plaques Detail The Hardship

There are large posters and plaques depicting images and brief information regarding the past events. Reading through them, you begin to note the somber atmosphere that permeates the place. Many people were forced to evacuate cities with only an hour’s notice, often times leaving with only shoes.

Wat Thmei Deserves A Visit

Wat Thmei is more than just a memorial however. A very large prayer hall greets you as you enter the compound. Within which you can see beautiful frescos and murals painted on the ceilings. And of course, a golden Buddha overlooks the entire hall.

As well, there are several smaller pagodas to Buddha within the center courtyard and a few other buildings.

Removed off to the side, you can find a few grave sites and stupas – here we found a thirsty kitten that we tried to give water, but it was too afraid of us.

 

 

There also are tour guides which can give you more explanation about everything that you see – we saw one that was given a tour in Khmer, though you can apparently arrange for one in English if you want. You may even catch a monk willing to chat.

 

Visit Wat Thmei

Wat Thmei is well worth the visit and does not take very long to take in. Located on Sivatha Rd, all tuk-tuks will know the place and if you go alone, it is easy to find. Although officially open from 6 am – 6 pm, you can expect to find it open during daylight hours. It is free to enter and visit, but you should donate a small bit to the memorial fund.

The terrors of the Khmer Rouge are something that will not soon leave Cambodia. It will remain an important part of Cambodia’s identity for many decades and perhaps centuries to come. Though we can solemnly appreciate the pain that has occurred here, as outsiders, we can never accurately portray or represent the events. If you want to learn more and gain a more thorough understanding of the local history before, during, or after your visit, we highly recommend reading First They Killed My Father: A Daughter of Cambodia Remembers.

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